Case in point was dinner this past Sunday evening at beachhouse, a steak and seafood restaurant in the popular Long Island beach town of East Hampton. While a combo played Motown and James Taylor tunes, local families, retirees, and summer residents filled the tables, chatting amicably and enjoying the menu's best dishes. Among them were char-grilled baby octopus on a bed of tender white beans in a light lemon, tomato, and white wine sauce, as well as sweet but succulent local scallops with a lobster glaze atop truffled creamed corn. A fat iceberg wedge sprinkled with little lardons, cherry tomatoes, and diced red onion was a perfect vehicle for Roquefort dressing. The spinach was fresh, chopped, and lightly creamed, spiced with a good dose of nutmeg; and a hefty hunk of pork belly lay across a satisfying casserole of baked beans.