Most of the year, Briceño, wife of the rodeo groundskeeper, cooks only for her family. But at rodeo time, which in San Fernando covers an extended weekend in March and another in November, she prepares her version of comida criolla—the hearty cuisine linked with the rodeo traditions of the Central Valley—for the huasos, charging them about five dollars a meal. On this particular Saturday, she is serving cazuela de carne (beef stew) and empanadas accompanied by the spicy salsa known as pebre to about 20 cowboys and grooms, who arrive in shifts throughout the afternoon. The previous day, her menu featured pastel de choclo—a pie of chicken or beef (and sometimes both) baked with grated corn, milk, olives, boiled eggs, and raisins, beneath a burnt sugar crust. On Sunday, the rodeo's climax, the main dish will be charquican, a combination of beef, potatoes, and whatever vegetables are in season, all boiled and then mashed together. She is also considering requests for porotos granados—a mixture of beans, squash, corn, and onions, flavored with basil.