I wake up early, when the cable cars start rolling past my house in North Beach, and amble down the hill to the Dolphin Club at Aquatic Park for a wake-up dip. As I pass through the clubhouse, I see Lou "the Glue" Marcelli in the galley, cleaning calamari for his lunch. Lou, the club custodian, lives upstairs, and cooks for himself every day in this boat-style kitchen overlooking the bay. Today, he'll make himself calamari pasta in red sauce, with plenty of parsley and garlic. It's an old family recipe, he says—the kind of dish the fishermen used to whip up on their boats out in the bay. His father, who immigrated to California in 1914, was one of those fishermen. "During World War II," Lou remembers, "my father fished for shark. Shark's liver was prized by the bomber pilots for improving night vision." As he talks, he slides his knife smoothly along one glistening squid after another, scraping off the skin as he forces out the innards. "It should only take you 15 minutes from start to finish to make this dish," he adds, looking up from his work for a moment, "and that includes cleaning the calamari."