And we visit about a dozen wineries, some of whose representatives we've lunched with at Cullen. Voyager Estate, the memory of whose cabernet sauvignon merlot is still with us, is a massive property, with buildings in the South African Cape Dutch style, a spacious restaurant and shop, an extensive rose garden, an underground barrel room now being built, and what is rumored to be the second-largest Australian flag in the state flying from a flagpole near the parking lot. We don't meet the proprietor, Michael Wright—who loves South Africa, is said to favor safari suits as daily garb, and is a teetotaler—but we are welcomed by Stuart Pym. He pours us a wide range of Voyager wines as well as some from another property, Devil's Lair, at which his partner, Janice McDonald, was winemaker until a few weeks earlier. (She has since gone to work for a new microbrewery.) All the wines are good, among them a buttery, faintly mango-scented '97 Devil's Lair Chardonnay and Voyager's '99 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, which Pym describes as "Margaret River in a bottle, fresh, fruity, not overly complex"; best of all, to my palate, is the '98 Voyager Semillon, an austere but beautifully constructed example of what this underrated grape can do. "It's a winemaker's wine," Pym observes, which I suppose means that lay wine drinkers don't appreciate it as much as they should.