The other local classic, pizza margherita, has an official birthdate: June 11, 1889. Affable pizza kingpin Don Vincenzo Pagnani, great-grandson of the margherita's inventor, spins me the yarn at his fabled pizzeria, Brandi, which has been in the family since 1780. One day, says Don Vincenzo, the humble pizzaiuolo Raffaele Esposito was called to cater a royal feast for Queen Margherita di Savoia. To the classic marinara, he boldly added mozzarella cheese and basil leaves, as an homage to the red, white, and green of Italy's flag. Asked for the name of his new creation, Esposito diplomatically responded: "Margherita, Your Majesty!"