The region of Epirus in northwest Greece is famous for its alevropita, savory tarts so easy to make they’re nicknamed “lazy woman’s pies.” Twenty-five years ago, I had an unforgettable version at Kiki’s, a restaurant in the village of Monodendri. Served straight out of the wood-fired oven, it had a flaky, cracker-thin crust; the topping was a simple mix of egg and crumbled feta. Kiki took her recipe to the grave, but I developed a version that’s as good as what I remember: airy baked egg and cheese, fragrant with oregano and thyme, spiked with just a bit of heat from chile flakes, and layered with buttery phyllo. It’s almost too ample a reward for the little effort involved in making it.
Aglaia Kremezi is author of_Vegetarian Mediterranean Feasts (Abrams, forthcoming, 2014)._