The Saltbox Seafood Joint

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James Oseland

The daily-caught fish bristles with freshness, the preparations reveal chef Ricky Moore's creativity and skill: toothsome grilled bluefish in a smoky-spicy rub of paprika and Aleppo pepper; an oyster roll, the plump, sweet mollusks dusted in fine cornmeal before frying, then topped with a fresh herb-laced slaw. Moore's tiny but mighty Saltbox Seafood Joint (608 North Magnum Street; 919/908-8970) in Durham, North Carolina, fulfills our wildest fantasies of what a takeout fish shack can be.