Nicky’s recipe is sweetened with sweet potato and studded with wheat berries and quinoa, cutting some of the heaviness from the traditional white potatoes and barley. Chili flakes, long considered an ingredient non grata in Ashkenazi cooking, add subtle heat. And while it does have ketchup, it’s free of other sugary additions like cola and honey, saving it from the cloying sweetness of versions I had sampled, and spit out, when visiting relatives as a child. This cholent tasted like cassoulet, but with a Yiddish twist. It was rich with marrow and umami, full of flavor layers much like a perfect bone broth. Eating it, I was surprised to find myself, at that table full of new and religious family, feeling utterly at home.