When, in the 17th century, the Mughal emperor Jahangir set his eyes upon Kashmir, he exclaimed, “If there be a heaven on earth, it is here. It is here.” Having recently visited the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, in the subcontinent’s far northwest, I have to agree with him. From the sweeping Himalayan views to the trout-filled rivers that course past fields purple with saffron crocuses, to the placid, lily-dotted lakes of Srinagar, Kashmir is, indeed, gorgeous. But more important, all that beauty yields abundant crops and provides grazing lands for Kashmiri sheep. Lamb and yogurt, lotus roots and greens grown in the middle of the lakes, eggplant and cold-loving kohlrabi, nuts and dried fruits, and smoky, mild Kashmiri chiles provide the basis of a unique cuisine. In the chilly, high-altitude climate, hearty meat dishes and warm, tandoori-baked or griddle-cooked breads are beloved, along with warming teas made with saffron, cardamom, and almonds, or the region’s sulphurous pink salt.