It happens every year. Spring turns to summer and tomatoes slowly start showing up at markets. Before long, tables are buckling under the weight of summer's bounty and, for a few short months, it's tomato everything. But then the weather turns colder. Soft, colorful fruit become firm and pale. Depression sets in, you're shopping inside again before you know it, and you're giving your local store's winter tomatoes the cold shoulder. But you don't have to. Because a short ferment goes a long way.