The Palácio, with its dark bar and bright lobby, copious marble, lived-in period furniture, and bellhops in tails, has the inherent theatricality of an old movie. Ian Fleming stayed here in May of 1941, when he met Serbian-born triple agent Dusko Popov, the ur-Bond playboy spy known as "Tricycle" for the women occupying both his arms. Here, Fleming conceived of his famed character (and perhaps his hero's idiosyncratic "shaken, not stirred" directive). In those years, the high floors of Estoril hotels—the Palácio, Atlántico, and Inglaterra—were booked solid by agents who gazed toward the ocean after nightfall to decipher code twinkling from offshore ships. When the Germans ordered the best champagne at Spy's Bar, the gin-swilling Allies knew a battle had been lost in Africa. Bartenders got the news before the papers printed it.