Though the JB Restavracija (Miklošičeva 17, Tel. 386-1-433-1358) is formal and a little stuffy, go for chef Janez Bratovž's superb cooking, including dishes like roasted beets with beet ice cream and horseradish panna cotta, veal shank with cabbage noodles, and cottage-cheese pancakes with tarragon. The city's most charming restaurant is Špajza (Gorni Trg 28, Tel. 386-01-425-3094), which is run by a brother-and-sister team, and has lots of small dining rooms in an old house. They serve venison tartare with roasted pistachios and tarragon, horse steak with truffles and scampi buzara. Golstilna Na Gradu (Grajska Planota 1, Tel. 386-8-205-1930) in Ljubljana castle is a good choice for lunch and offers an appealing Slovenian locavore menu created by three of the country's best known chefs. All of Slovenia's regional kitchens are represented on a menu that includes dishes like pumpkin flowers stuffed with cottage cheese, zucchini and poppy seeds, pork stuffed with cheese and spinach, and Kobariški štruklji, dessert dumplings stuffed with ground walnuts and raisins.