Those ingredients are the foundation of Nyum Bai's signature dish, a rice noodle soup known as kuy tiew. The pork broth is brightened by kroeung, a pounded paste of lemongrass, Makrut lime leaf and zest, galangal, shallots, garlic and fresh turmeric. Last year, she cooked kyu tiew for La Cocina's board of directors; the fragrant soup, garnished with crispy garlic, sprouted mung beans and a splash of her mother's hot sauces, earned her a place in the organization's program for food entrepreneurs. Yun slathers that same fragrant paste on beef, threading the meat onto skewers that she then grills over charcoal. She calls them Angel Cruz beef skewers, named after a Stockton park where Cambodian families gather to hang out, grill, and eat.