That night, at a farewell dinner at a nearby seafood restaurant, Cozzaglio and Galetti politely asked the owner if we could use the olive oil they'd brought to season our grilled scallops, branzino, and scampi. Under lashings of bitter, peppery Miniol and smooth, grassy Leccino, the seafood sprang to life. The owner, intrigued, asked if he could share some with his other clients. We watched as diners at the tables around us sipped, smiled, and nodded appreciatively. A few coughed as the Miniol bit into the back of their throat but, one by one, they all turned to Cozzaglio with congratulations: "Complimenti!" He replied to the praise with the humility befitting a potatore: "Please, please," he said, "save your compliments for the trees."