yant’s Store is located in White Hall, Virginia, a town with a population just shy of 700, surrounded by farms and vineyards. The ancient clapboard building practically teeters on the side of a country road near the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Outside, there’s a lone time-warp gas pump. Inside, there are shelves of pantry staples—yellow mustard, evaporated milk—a few tables with folding chairs, and a menu that lists country-ham sandwiches and specials like smothered pork and cheeseburger “mac.” Opened by Adam Wyant in 1888, and still run by the Wyant family, the store hosts a group of locals practically every day for a meeting of what they have dubbed “The Liars Club,” a cover under which they can swap stories and trade tender insults over sausage biscuits and coffee. When Mason Hereford was growing up in nearby Free Union (population: under 300), he looked forward to visiting stores like Wyant’s with his siblings. Let loose in the aisles, they found independence, distraction, and sustenance. For their mom, Amy, these stores represented something more: the kinship that helped her raise a family in troubled times.