Beets are still sold, at least in this country, mostly in cans or jars (twice as many beets are grown for processing as for selling fresh). But fresh beets are far more flavorful and versatile: they can be sliced raw into crunchy, paper-thin wafers and tossed with a mustardy vinaigrette; roasted or boiled or sauteed until tender; even pickled, with horseradish and onion. In India, beets are simmered with spices like turmeric and black mustard seed. The Germans make a red sauerkraut with beets, bacon, and green cabbage; and the Lebanese like to slather steamed beets with a thick, garlicky yogurt sauce sprinkled with mint. In eastern Europe, where the beet is venerated, tables teem with beet dishes—such as Russia's vinegret, a salad of beets, potatoes, carrots, brined cucumbers, and raw onion; c´wikl-a z chrzanem, the horseradish-beet condiment of Poland; and, of course, beet soup, eaten all across the region in countless guises, from the sturdy Ukrainian borscht to a clear, brilliant Polish version in which mushroom dumplings bob.