Of all the dishes chef Bryan Caswell serves at Reef, his genre-defying restaurant in Houston, this is the one he considers the most truly Texan. Redfish, which has long been a favorite Gulf fish (though a ban on commercial catches means that most are farm-raised these days), is grilled in its “shell”—simply the skin (scales and all, which have been left on the filet), grilled to a crisp. The technique, favored by locals who can’t be bothered to scale their fish, keeps the flesh tender and moist. Seldom has laziness begat something so delicious.
Redfish on the Half Shell
A truly Texan specialty.