Deli Diaspora

The best delis in North America and western Europe offer a delicious link to the Jewish foodways of the Old World. These places are run by owners committed to keeping the flavors of the past alive and to satisfying the die-hard customers who come in asking for a side of kishke (sausage made with matzo meal, spices, and rendered fat) or a plate of ptcha (jellied calves' feet). These places traffic not only in the Reubens and egg creams we all know, but also in unique dishes and great variety