Why, then, should Guy Savoy actually celebrate the day? Why should the chef of a two-star restaurant (worth three, in my view), known for his nonpareil artichoke soup and super-succulent veal chops, mess around with something like this? Well, for one thing, he spent time in America in the early 1980s, running a restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut. (He still gets to New York occasionally and counts himself a devotee of Nobu, Peter Luger, and the Mercer Kitchen.) Besides, Savoy told me, he thought the French needed more holidays to celebrate. "In the old days," he said, "we had only the Fourteenth of July—our national day—and Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve, plus the religious holidays, of course." "I don't know," remarked Safer, ever the provocateur. "When I was working here, it seemed as if there was a holiday or a greve [strike] every other day."