But no culture is identified so closely with, or has devised so many dishes for, frogs' legs as that of the French, whose indefatigable appetite for the food gave rise, back in the 16th century, to the famous Anglo-Saxon habit of calling the French "frogs." The earliest recorded recipe for cuisses de grenouille, as frogs' legs are called in France, appears in a 1393 cookbook titled Le Menagier de Paris, or "The Goodman of Paris"; the recipe calls for simply frying the thighs in oil. Since then, frogs' legs have been prized by France's greatest chefs. In his 1832 tome L'art de la cuisine française, Marie-Antonin Careme recommended dressing them in an egg yolk-and-cream sauce. In 1908 Georges Auguste Escoffier caused a sensation when he served Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, cuisses de nymphes a l'Aurore, or thighs of the dawn nymphs, at the Savoy Hotel. (Escoffier apparently found the English translation of cuisses de grenouille too vulgar to print on a menu.) And, upon winning his third Michelin star in 1967 at L'Auberge de l'Ill, the Alsatian chef Paul Haeberlin created a mousseline de grenouilles, an elegant terrine of deboned and minced leg meat poached in riesling. Today, along with other classics like lobster bisque and escargots, frogs' legs remain a staple of traditional French restaurants.