The restaurant’s name is a bit of a misnomer, as Al Forno’s pizzas are not, in fact, baked in the oven. Instead, the thin, artfully assembled pies are cooked directly over an open fire. When I was a kid growing up in the 1980s and ‘90s, Al Forno was the hottest table in town. It was one of the first restaurants in the area that didn’t take reservations, and I remember my parents sipping California cabernet at the edge of the bar, waiting patiently for our table. While many restaurants of that era have gone the way of shoulder pads, Al Forno has endured, continuing to serve the grilled pizza that helped put it on the map. The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant, George Germon and Johanne Killeen, are still the only Rhode Island chefs to have ever taken home a James Beard award in the Best Chef Northeast category, way back in 1993.