Throughout the morning, we collected cornmeal, hot peppers, parsley, garlic, white beans, and an assortment of greens—but the djon-djon was conspicuously absent. Dejected, we decided to try again the next week. The day before my departure, though, Solange finally found some. She grinned as she handed me the striped plastic bag, and my eyes grew wide as I untied the knot and took in the delightful earthy smell. Djon-djon is also the name of a simple, hearty rice dish, named for its star ingredient, and now that we finally had some, Solange could teach me her ways. She fired up the stove, and we started cooking.