The Complete Guide to Paris Bistros. Landon Nordeman
Established in 1931, Allard remains one of the city’s most beloved old-guard bistros, and for good reason. Dishes like escargots in parsley butter, house foie gras terrine, and roast duck with olives are top-notch.
Recipe cards at the restaurant; almost as old as the establishment itself.
41 rue St-Andre des Arts, 6th arrondissement (33/1/4326-4823). Expensive.
Since taking over this famous old bistro in 2002, Alain Ducasse has artfully updated the menu while preserving the soul of the bistro.
A waiter serves braised veal breast with artichokes.
32 rue St-Marc, 2nd arrondissement (33/1/4296-6504). Moderate.
Time stands still at this century-old bistro in the heart of Paris, which serves classics like blanquette de veau (veal breast served with a lemony cream sauce), chicken liver terrine, and wonderful cream puffs with hot chocolate sauce.
Pan-fried steak with mustard cream sauce.
1 rue du Mail, 2nd arrondissement (33/1/4260-0711). Moderate.
Come to this temple of classic bistro cuisine for generous portions of garlicky, crunchy potato galette, grilled veal kidneys, whole roast chicken with heaps of frites, and tender milk-fed lamb.
A chef in the kitchen.
32 rue Vertbois, 3rd arrondissement (33/1/4887-7748). Expensive.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
Chef Thierry Laurent serves some of the best terrine de campagne in Paris at this genial new bistro.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
A waiter serves sole meuniere.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert, 11th arrondissement (33/1/4372-24-01). Moderate.
The brilliant market-menu cooking of chef Gregory Marchand features cosmopolitan dishes like crab-stuffed ravioli with parsley juice and shellfish. 5 rue du Nil, 2nd arrondissement (33/1/4039-9619). Moderate.
Chef Stephane Jego, who worked under bistro wizard Yves Camdeborde, founder of La Regalade, serves market-driven southwestern French and Basque cooking.
27 rue Malar, 7th arrondissement (33/1/4705-8689). Moderate.
La Regalade Saint-Honoré
At this new branch of La Regalade, chef Bruno Doucetes menu has been a phenomenal hit ever since it opened seven months ago. 123 rue St-Honore, 1st arrondissement (33/1/4221-9240). Moderate.
Aizpitarte’s globally influenced cuisine de vagabonde exhibits stunning imagination, as in dishes like sea bass with red chicory and lemon creme fraiche.
129 avenue Parmentier, 11th arrondissement (33/1/4357-4595). Moderate
This tiny place has been a hit ever since it opened two years ago. 9 rue de l’Eperon, 6th arrondissement (33/1/4441-0009). Moderate.
In French, the name of this popular two-year-old bistro means “in times gone by,” a nod from talented young chef Guillaume Delage to France¿s rich culinary heritage. Pictured here, pork belly with lentils and escargots. 208 rue de la Croix-Nivert, 15th arrondissement (33/1/4557-7320). Moderate.
Le Cochon a l’Oreille
In the old market district of Les Halles, a diverse crowd of happy Parisians packs into this 97-year-old bistro’s compact Belle Époque; dining room to tuck into dishes like confit de canard and stuffed pork with lentils. 15 rue Montmartre, 1st arrondissement (33/1/4236-0756). Moderate.
Aptly named chef Thierry Breton’s Breton-inspired cooking is reliably delicious, with dishes like kig ha farz (a stew of pork and veal served with buckwheat stuffing).
The bistro serves one of the best Paris-Brest pastries (a ring of choux pastry filled with hazelnut cream) in town.
Since it’s one of her favorite restaurants, yes, that gorgeous blonde in the corner at this vintage bistro near the Gare du Nord just might be Catherine Deneuve. 10 rue de Belzunce, 10th arrondissement (33/1/4453-0620). Moderate.
Le Baratin is a small, crowded bistro in Belleville, one of the last bohemian neighborhoods in Paris.
It’s a major expedition from the city center, but that hasn’t stopped it from becoming the place where chefs like Joel Robuchon and Yves Camdeborde come for a night-off feast of chef Raquel Carena’s fabulous home-style cooking.
The daily-changing menu ranges from oxtail braised with citrus fruits to ragout of cod and shrimp with saffron. 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th arrondissement (33/1/4349-3970). Inexpensive.
La Fontaine de Mars
This popular, well-mannered bourgeois bistro with lace curtains, red-checked tablecloths, and wry but polite waiters always gets it just right, with a superb roster of good old-fashioned Gallic food. 129 rue St-Dominique, 7th arrondissement (33/1/4705-4644). Moderate.
5 rue des Prouvaires, 1st arrondissement (33/1/4236-2182). Moderate.
Boisterous, friendly, and completely Parisian, Chez Denise serves trenchermen’s portions of headcheese, charcuterie, lamb brains (pictured here), and rib steaks with fabulous frites until 5:00 A.M.
L’Ecailler du Bistrot
Sister restaurant to Le Bistrot Paul Bert, this may be the best seafood-oriented bistro in Paris, with impeccable fish at reasonable prices. 22 rue Paul Bert, 11th arrondissement (33/1/4372-7677). Moderate.