My pet haunt was Cafe Geiger, frequented during the day by local ladies wearing deep fur felt hats and downing several courses of pastries, a setting that made me feel for all the world as though I were in Frankfurt, the only visible English word being exit. I loved Geiger not only for its best, freshest beef tartare, but for its amazing bakery, the highlights of which were the big, puffy jelly donuts, aka Berliner Pfannkuchen, and the spit-turned batter cake known as Baumkuchen or tree cake. Standing tall, slim, and hollow with crusty ridges, it suggested a tree trunk, and the almond-scented, poundcakelike interior showed toasty rings like the rings of age on a tree trunk cross section. Long gone from New York, delicious Baumkuchen is still turned out year-round at the enticing Lutz Café & Pastry Shop in Chicago. Many of Geiger's other delectables, especially the aromatically spicy Christmas cookies and pungently fragrant Linzer tortes, are now offered by Hans Röckenwagner in his bakery and cafés around Santa Monica, California.