Sifnos sits between Milos and Serifos in the Cyclades chain, approximately 80 nautical miles from Piraeus, Athens’s most popular port. The sleepy, whitewashed town of Exambela, where Tselementes was born, is today divided by one of the island’s major thoroughfares. On one side sits a cluster of houses with a neat church in its folds, steps up from a small field. On the other, homes rise in twists and turns around a maze of small streets and alleys. There is no fast food here, no gym. Exambela, unlike the Chrysopigi Monastery, the soft-sand beaches of Cheronissos and Vathi, or the island’s 360 churches—one for nearly every day of the year—is rarely mentioned on any of the Sifnos to-do lists.