Another proponent of the brown rice resurgence in Japan is Yumiko Kanou, a cookbook author and the chef at Tokyo's acclaimed restaurant Nakaiseki Sen. Kanou is one of the country's most innovative practitioners of shojin ryori, a vegetarian branch of Japanese cuisine. Eschewing excess and strong seasonings, those who adhere to this cooking style emphasize seasonality and favor the subtle, earthy notes of foods like burdock, carrot, daikon, and brown rice. Using these building blocks, along with a host of aromatic ingredients, Kanou has succeeded in creating full-flavored dishes that make the most of whole-grain rice's special characteristics. One of the dishes she's adapted for home cooks in one of her books is okayu, a savory porridge; hers is made with roasted brown rice and seasoned with a slightly spicy seaweed-based sauce. She also makes a toasty fried-rice dish using brown rice, pine nuts, scallions, and sesame oil.