In any sugar maple tree, sap flow is governed by a cycle of warm days, which cause the sap to move toward the base of the tree, where the tap is inserted, and freezing-cold nights, which help the tree draw moisture up from the soil. Mopure's trees grow in the mountains, where spring comes on slowly, extending that freeze-thaw cycle and allowing for a greater flow of minerals and other nutrients through the tree. Scientists are only beginning to work out how such characteristics of soil and climate ultimately express themselves in a maple syrup. But I can happily confirm that the delicious syrups that the company makes—the clean, nectarlike Extra Light; the Light, with its pure, archetypal maple flavor; and the deeper, woodsier-tasting Medium—are unlike those produced anywhere else. Mopure's syrups cost $17 (plus shipping) for a 500-ml bottle or $45 (plus shipping) for a set of three 250-ml bottles in Extra Light, Light, and Medium. To order, call 403/939-4042 or visit www.rarified.ca.