Gougeres, the irresistible French “cheese puffs” traditionally served with aperitifs in Burgundy, might well be the perfect hors d’oeuvre: With their delicate crisp walls and soft, cheese-laced, eggy interior, gougeres are light enough to whet your appetite but rich enough to satisfy pre-meal cravings. French housewives make their own gougeres, or carry them home from their local traiteur. The secret of the puff? According to chef Jean-Pierre Silva of Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland, it’s all in how you construct the dough: Adding the flour all at once, and the eggs one at a time, is vital.