What distinguishes Hoge's cakes is the generous amount of meat they contain and their pure crab flavor, which is enhanced with mustard and ground black and white pepper. "I started with 100 percent meat," Hoge says, "and worked backward." Hoge is fanatical about the quality of the meat he uses, buying only blue crabs from Maryland's Eastern Shore and, when those are out of season, blue crabs from Mexico. He personally inspects each bushel and insists on buying only steamed (not boiled) crabs. "When you boil crabs, water gets into the meat," he says. These cakes are pricey, but as Hoge notes, they're pricey to make: "Crab cakes aren't profitable unless you put a lot of filler in them. And I can't do that. I'm a purist." To order, call 866⁄785-4100 or visit www.chrismarketplace.com.