The chef and restaurateur Barbara Lynch is Boston's cross between Martha Stewart and Robert Moses. She's a cook with superb taste, both gustatory and visual. She's also an urban visionary with working-class roots who is always looking around the next corner, usually one with a lot of demolition crews blocking the view. Since she opened her impeccable No. 9 Park on Beacon Hill, in 1998, Lynch, a native of Irish South Boston (think The Departed), has built a culinary empire of more than seven restaurants and gourmet shops. Her latest venture is a sleekly designed Italian lunch counter called Sportello. It's a tribute to Brigham's, the ur-Boston ice cream parlor and luncheonette where as a teenager she flipped burgers and first thought, Hey, I can do this.