Graeter's quest for good fruit symbolizes his dedication: His fussy search for prime peaches starts in the Carolinas in midsummer and moves north with the season, paying off with fresh peach ice cream. Earlier in the summer, he scours Oregon and Washington for black raspberries to go in his best-selling flavor, black raspberry chocolate chip. But his biggest triumph is the chocolate chips. The next four most popular flavors all include them: mint chocolate chip, vanilla chocolate chip, double chocolate chip, and mocha chocolate chip. How does Graeter explain their success? "No prefab chips," he answers. He starts with blocks of chocolate, melts them, pours the molten chocolate over the ice cream, and then breaks up the frozen mass by hand—yielding, as Graeter puts it, "chocolate chips you can really appreciate". Six pints is the minimum order (www.graeters.com).