See the Recipe. Anita Calero

At once earthy and fresh, this ragout makes for an elegant side dish. We prefer to use dried morels for this recipe because their soaking water can be reduced to a rich broth. This recipe appeared in Coleman Andrews’s article “Peas Please” (March/April 1996).

Yield: serves 4


  • 12 small dried morels
  • 12 pearl onions, peeled
  • 2 tbsp. butter
  • 8 whole small carrots, peeled and trimmed
  • 12 tsp. sugar
  • 1 lb. fresh peas, shelled to yield 1 cup
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper


  1. Wash morels under running water and trim the root ends from onions. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add morels and onions; cover; remove from heat. After 1 minute, remove onions using a slotted spoon. Replace cover and soak morels until soft, about 10 minutes.
  2. Remove morels with a slotted spoon and rinse well. Pour morel soaking liquid through a sieve lined with a coffee filter and return to saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until liquid is reduced to 1 cup, about 20 minutes.
  3. Melt butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add carrots and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, add onions, sugar, and 1⁄2 cup water, and simmer until liquid evaporates, about 15 minutes. Add morels and morel stock, cover, and cook for 7 minutes. Add peas and cook for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.