The kind of apricot and the care taken during production, are, we have found, crucial to the final result. In Turkey, the pits are slipped out and the fruits are dried whole to make moist, very sweet (and quite cheap) apricots. Unfortunately, they lack the balance of sugar, acid, and solids that gives American apricots their sweet-tart taste. The famous Pakistani hunzas (look for whole ones with edible almondlike pits—supposedly those who eat them live long past 100) appear wizened but are sweetest of all and marvelously varied in flavor. In general, seek out the shapeless "slabs," which are made from extra-ripe apricots. These are sweet, intensely flavored, and relatively inexpensive.