It looks like porridge, but shio-koji_is actually a game-changing pantry staple. A Japanese condiment made from _shio, or salt, and rice inoculated by koji, the mold used to make miso and sake, it transforms fish, meat, and vegetables into sweet-salty, umami-packed vehicles of flavor. We use it in place of soy sauce in marinades for roast chicken or grilled fish, drop a dash into vinaigrettes to balance acidity, and even whisk it into our morning scrambled eggs.

Shio-Koji, $10 at

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