In the remote mountain villages of the Mexican state of Jalisco, local taberneros have long made a bootleg mezcal called raicilla. Produced in tiny batches in rustic open-air facilities, raicilla is distilled from agave varieties, made smoky from roasting in underground pits and adobe ovens. Finally, it’s available in the U.S. La Venenosa—”the venomous”—is a line of four raicillas from four Jalisco villages. One is like sipping the desert, another like savoring funky cheese, but all are wilder than any mezcal you’ve ever tasted. ($100;