Brancott Vineyards Reserve Gisborne Chardonnay 1997 ($15)
A low-key chardonnay, but flavorful and fragrant in a tropical-fruit-bowl sort of way.

Deutz Cuvee William Deutz 1990 ($85)
Much less well known than it deserves to be, this premium bottling is rich, full-bodied, and complex in flavor, with a long, aromatic finish.

**Sterling Vineyards Diamond Mountain Ranch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 ($25)****
Dark and intense, with concentrated fruit, wood, and herb flavors. An impressive wine, mature not in age, but in the sense that it seems so confidently made.