Smillie's technique takes quite a bit of time—the ribs are brined for a few days, then coated with a thick paste of peppercorns, steam-roasted, and finally seared to harden their crust and caramelize the fat. The resulting dish is firm, crispy, fatty, and spicy, and it tastes like a cross between pastrami, Texas barbecue, and a Sunday roast all on one platter. And then, there's the acidic, briny crunch from the radish and olives that cuts through the meat's peppery richness. The finished dish is so extraordinary that we put it on the cover of our 2015 Jan./Feb. issue.