The island’s remoteness became an additional boon when phylloxera, the aphid that slowly destroyed the majority of European vineyards in the late 1800s, failed to reach the Canarian shores. Unlike those of many European varietals today, which have been grafted onto other resistant root stocks, Lanzarote’s ancient vines still grow from their original roots, producing smaller bunches of intensely flavored grapes. This isolation has also allowed endemic grapes such as malvasía volcánica, the island’s most celebrated varietal, to survive here wholly unaltered for centuries. These indigenous grapes—which go by a number of local names, and include listán blanco, albillo, and diego, just to name a few—result in red and white wines that are highly acidic with a distinctive salinity. Because of the intense sunlight, which encourages excess sugars to develop, the grapes are harvested in late July, typically the earliest of any European wine region.