You can get good quality cider without paying out the nose, so it makes sense to stock up. That also means you can stage different cider styles for different parts of the meal. Instead of a sparkling wine before diving into the main event, "start with a sparkling cider," Reis offers, "something highly carbonated and celebratory in style." His pick is any of Foggy Ridge's four sparkling ciders. "They're all acid-forward, and a nice aperitif in that regard," he says, "because the acid really wakes up your palate." For sweeter foods, like sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce, "an ultra-dry cider might taste comparatively harsh," Reis warns, so he suggests a semi-dry cider, where fermentation is stopped before the yeast eat all the sugar. The residual sugar makes for a slightly sweeter drink that plays well with gravy and caramelized flavors.