Canard aux Olives (Roast Duck with Olives)
Based on a recipe from Allard, this bistro favorite calls for a rich sauce, made by simmering green olives, herbs, and stock, to accompany roast duck.
- 1⁄4 tsp. fennel seeds
- 12 parsley stems
- 8 black peppercorns
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 sprig thyme
- 3 tbsp. unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp. canola oil
- 2 lb. chicken wings or backs (if using backs, cut into 2″ pieces)
- 1 (4 1/2 -lb.) muscovy duck, legs tied, neck and gizzards reserved
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 3 medium yellow onions, minced
- 1 1⁄2 tbsp. flour
- 8 cups chicken stock
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 1⁄3 cup tomato paste
- 1 lb. large brine-cured green olives, pitted
- Put fennel, parsley, peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme on a 6″ square piece of cheesecloth. Bring up corners of cheesecloth and tie with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni; set aside. Heat 1 tbsp. butter and oil in an 8-qt. pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces and reserved duck neck and gizzards, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 8 minutes. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 5 minutes. Sprinkle with ﬂour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add reserved bouquet garni, stock, and wine and stir in tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, occasionally skimming fat from surface, for 2 hours.
- Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, add olives, and cook for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse olives under cold water; set aside. Set a ﬁne mesh strainer over a 4-qt. saucepan. Strain sauce, discarding solids. Add olives and heat over medium heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced and coats the back of a spoon, 1–1 1⁄2 hours. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and keep warm.
- Heat oven to 475°. Score duck skin all over with a small paring knife and rub skin with remaining butter; season with salt and pepper. Place duck breast side down on a rack in a large roasting pan and place in oven; roast for 20 minutes. Turn duck breast side up; roast for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°. Continue cooking until duck is browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deepest part of a thigh (without touching the bone) reads 160°, about 1 hour. Transfer duck to a platter and let rest for 20 minutes.
- To serve, carve duck into 8 pieces and arrange on a large platter to resemble the whole duck. Pour olive sauce over top and serve immediately.
Pairing note: The Chateau Real Martin Cotes de Provence 2005 ($22) has flavors of cherry, prune, and tobacco that pair very well with duck and with this dish’s robust sauce in particular. —M.P.