As a nation, we didn't know we loved tomato soup until someone condensed it and put it in a can. That's when it became a steady presence on our tables, a fixture in our pantries and in our imaginations. (It's no accident that Andy Warhol's most famous soup can silkscreen is of tomato soup and not, say, vegetable beef.) To those of us who grew up loving the ready-made stuff, a recipe for homemade cream of tomato soup–a variation popularized in 1900, when Campbell's started printing the recipe on labels–is nothing short of revelatory. Crushed tomatoes bring brightness and body; bacon, a smoky depth; and a generous finish of creme fraiche infuses that signature luxuriousness. It's nuanced and vibrant in ways that the stuff out of a can just can't be. It's–if you'll pardon the expression–m'm, m'm, good.