Since significant interest in WA's cool grape-growing areas has come only in the past three decades, it's not surprising that WA's vintners, with so little history behind them, are still experimenting to find out which grapes grow the best in which places. Some things, though, already seem clear. In the coolest vineyards, riesling stands out, yielding wines with diamond-clear citrus flavors and a lacy delicacy. Shiraz also does well, the wines tending to have a distinct, black pepper quality that is more evocative of French Rhone wines than of fruity South Australian ones. In slightly warmer regions, both cabernet and chardonnay shine, the former often showing fine-grained polish, much as reds from Bordeaux do, while the latter offers one of the New World's most serious challenges to white burgundy's preeminence. And throughout WA, vintners blend sauvignon blanc and semillon to produce vibrant whites that pair superbly with the local shellfish.