J Vineyards and Winery Pinot Gris 2006, Russian River Valley (California)

Priced at $20, this fresh, lively white offers delicious warm weather drinking. Medium-bodied, it has been fashioned in an Alsatian (rather than a northern Italian) style, meaning that it tastes of ripe, succulent fruit, with hints of honey and spice. It finishes ever so slightly sweet, but is in such good balance that the impression of sugar proves satisfying rather than distracting. Very versatile at the supper table, it should pair well with rich seafood dishes as well as all sorts of pork and poultry preparations.