One Good Bottle: Dark Beauty

By Betsy Andrews

Published on February 24, 2013

In 1997, beer enthusiast Don Feinberg wrangled some Belgian yeast from overseas pals and opened Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, New York. The Belgian-style brewery is now owned by Flanders-based Duvel Moortgat, and its seasonal release, Art of Darkness ($12.99/750 ml), is made with enough barley, wheat, and oats to put any Belgian tripel to shame. But despite its 8.9 percent alcohol content, it's a buoyant brew. A dose of dextrose helps the yeast carbonate the beer, and two fermentations—one in the tank and a second in the bottle—add even more effervescence. Light on the tongue and boasting malty bread, earth, and fennel flavors, which are balanced by herbal hops and black cherry-flavored yeast, it's a big but lithe companion for chocolate, cheesecake, and other rich sweets.

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