According to chef Anthony Rose, of Toronto delicatessen Rose & Sons, this is “the first of the old and new fricassée recipes,” inspired by the traditional versions made by his grandmother, Esther Gottlieb, and his business partner Robert Wilder’s grandmother, Gella Rothstein. The braised chicken dish is made with the less popular bits of the chicken—wings, necks, gizzards, and most notoriously, feet—cooked in a bright, sweet-and-sour tomato sauce, which tempers the funkiness of the offal and feet while breaking down the collagen in the talons into a silky glaze. Ask your butcher or local grocer for cleaned chicken feet, necks, and gizzards. They might also be available at Asian markets. You can also remove the nails from the feet with a sharp knife before cooking, if you choose.