Dried are better than fresh: For a slow-cooked recipe like this, dried chickpeas are better than fresh ones. "Dried ones take on a nuttiness, and get really creamy," Smillie says. "Fresh chickpeas are great on their own, but in this recipe, they'd disintegrate." And canned? They're fine in a pinch, but won't develop the deep earthy flavor that makes chickpeas so good.