t Sushi Ginza Onodera, which was recently awarded its second Michelin star, sushi master Masaki Saito presides over pounds of fish shipped straight from Tokyo Bay to his New York City restaurant. Golden-eye Snapper, gizzard shad, and Japanese tiger prawn are a few of the delicacies chef Saito masterfully prepares during his two nightly omakase seatings. But chef Saito, who grew up in Hokkaido and attended a trade high school focused on marine life before he studied sushi in Tokyo, prepares his sushi differently from most. Instead of simply positioning the raw fish atop a mound of sushi rice, chef Saito abides by the principles of Edomae. Edomae (Edo is the old name for Tokyo and Mae literally means “in front,” as in waterfront) is a style of sushi that was invented in Tokyo about 200 years ago. Sushi master Kikuo Shimizu first defines it broadly in his book on the subject, Edomae Sushi, as “What an expert sushi chef makes by hand out of Japanese ingredients.” But there’s more to it than that. Edomae-style sushi is generally understood to involve treating the fish—which in the strictest interpretations must come from Tokyo Bay—with some sort of cooking or curing element before serving it.