Another contender for the "original chopped salad" title ( see ** Cobb Salad**) is the one invented in 1937 by Robert H. Cobb, the owner of LA's long-gone Brown Derby restaurant. It includes bacon, tomatoes, chicken, avocado, hard-cooked egg, chives, watercress, and romaine and iceberg lettuces, dressed with Roquefort cheese and red wine vinaigrette. Now featured on restaurant menus around the country, often under the name California Cobb, it still evokes the power lunches of old Hollywood. Jack Warner, a founder of the Warner Brothers studio, was known to send his chauffeur regularly to the Brown Derby to pick up Cobb salad by the carton. Though the Cobb predates La Scala's salad, there are those who maintain that the version originally served at the Brown Derby rested on a foundation of unchopped lettuce leaves, thereby disqualifying it as a chopped salad. Still, the Cobb as we know it today tends to be a thoroughly chopped affair. Others insist that the Cobb belongs in another category altogether, that of the composed salad, in which the various ingredients are arranged in an artful pattern on the plate. I'm inclined, however, to agree with Leslie Brenner, the former food editor of the Los Angeles Times, who pointed out in a 2005 article on the dearth of composed salads on LA menus, "You don't want to eat [a Cobb salad] until you toss it—at which point, it loses its composure."