As someone who tries to eat according to the seasons, I think of winter as my "limited fruit" period. To the monotonous, if comforting, rotation of stewed and baked apples, in winter I thankfully get to add citrus fruits—particularly the lovely tangerine, which, for me, holds a sense of nostalgia. I remember the miniature crates of tangerines my mom would bring home from the grocery store: most of the fruit we ate arrived in plastic bags, so the tangerines' wooden crate—emblazoned with the name of some Mediterranean country—imbued the fruit with a worldliness. And of course, tangerines were just so much fun. Unlike oranges, which usually required an adult's help to get the peel started, tangerine skin easily slipped off to expose the delicious fruit.