True veal noisettes are pieces of the loin; this imaginative dish mimics them with long-cooked veal shanks tied in leeks.
- 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 (5-lb.) veal shank, cut into 4–5 pieces
- Salt and freshly ground white pepper
- 3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 3 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1⁄2 cup white wine
- 12 black peppercorns
- 2 Tbsp. heavy cream
- 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
- 2 long, unblemished leek leaves, blanched and halved lengthwise
- 1⁄2 lb. assorted wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, fairy rings, or cèpes, cleaned and trimmed
Preheat oven to 300°. Heat 3 tbsp. of the oil in a large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Generously season veal shanks with salt and pepper, then brown, 3–5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add carrots, onions, and shallots, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up browned bits stuck to bottom of pot, then add 3 cups water and peppercorns. Return shanks and any juices to pot, cover, and braise in the oven until meat is very tender, about 3 hours.
Remove pot from oven and transfer shanks to a plate. Strain broth through a sieve into a medium saucepan, pressing on vegetables with the back of a spoon. Reduce broth over high heat to 1 cup, about 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cream, and simmer for 2 minutes. Strain sauce into a clean saucepan and whisk in all but 1 tbsp. of the butter, 1 small piece at a time. Keep sauce warm over very low heat.
Meanwhile, remove and discard bones and gristle from meat, then separate meat into small pieces. Assemble "medallions" by dividing meat into four portions, forming each into a circle with pieces standing upright and wrapping each with a leek leaf. Transfer carefully to a heat-proof plate. Cover with plastic wrap, set plate on a rack set over a pan of simmering water, cover, and steam until heated through, 5–10 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tbsp. butter and 1 tbsp. oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until tender, 2–3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, divide warm sauce between 4 plates. Place 1 medallion on top of sauce on each plate, then arrange mushrooms next to each medallion.